Lofoten, Norway (May 01-11, 2009)

At last, I am creating the long awaited travel-blog to share my travel experiences, and I feel great to start with a place as special as Lofoten.
Traveling has always been an adventurous sport for me and Bear Grylls a constant source of inspiration. Although I have traveled a lot within western Europe in last 3 yrs but my recent visit to Lofoten was something extraordinary.Norway is a special country. It consists of Fjords (mountains submerged in ocean) stretching 2500 kms north-south across arctic circle but only a few hundred kms east-west. It faces Atlantic to the west and Sweden to the east (mountain range-Skanderna). The landscape is very unique and not easily approachable. Gulf stream, that arrives all the way from Mexico, makes the place warmer than you might expect. Lofoten has unusually warm and habitable climate compared to any other place on same altitude anywhere else in the world (Temp above zero all year!!!!).Lofoten is located across arctic circle. It forms a narrow stretch of Fjords (islands) coming out of mainland Norway and extending more than 400 KM into Atlantic. There are finishing villages which export Cod and Stock fish mainly to Italy and Nigeria. The place is very remote but the tourism is booming. I guess Climate change has also a role to play. They have recently build a road across the Lofoten which makes getting-in very easy. Although the main tourists are still those getting off the cruise ships and spending few days time on the islands. The best season to visit Lofoten is summer when you get sunlight all day! although it must also be nice to experience Northern lights (Aurora Borealis) in winter time when its dark all day. Whale Safary, Puffin bird safary, fishing and diving are common activities in summer. Most of the mountains are approachable as they are not very high.



The Fjords in Lofoten are higher and narrower than the Fjords in south. There is no connection to this place from south Norway by road (or train) unless you get your car on a ferry. The only connection by train is from Sweden to Narvik that is an important port for transporting Iron and Copper taken from the mines in Kiruna (famous ice hotel) and Gallivare.


My journey from Eindhoven(nl) to Lofoten(no) with an air distance of 3000KM south-north was half way by air (Eindhoven to Stockholm) and half way on train (22hr, Stockholm to Narvik). I love spending time in Stockholm as it is one of the most beautiful cities I have ever seen. My journey from Stockholm to Narvik (1500+km) by train was one heck of an experience. One can see the changing climate from humid continental (dense green pine forest) to subarctic climate (short scarce trees, huge frozen lakes every now and then- picture to the left, people ice-finishing and moving on snow mobiles).



Two days after leaving home, I finally reached Narvik (03May2009). I was lucky to be traveling with Aleksey Kocherzhenko, my colleague from office and a good friend. He is a tough guy and a crazy traveler. It was raining the time we reached Narvik . Tourist information center was closed and public transport was also shitty that time of the year. We decided to hitchhike straight away. We were standing on the road asking for a lift with our heavy backpacks and raincoats on. Well! it was certainly not a nice spot to hitchhike as the road was steep and chances of someone stopping were small. After an hour or so, we eventually got picked but only got a drive for 4-5 KM. Well! within 10-15 minutes we were standing on the road. This time the spot was good and we were picked up by a guy from Finland who drove us more then 200 kms to Svolvær. After drinking coffee at a gas station we again went outside the city to hitchhike our way ahead.
On the picture to the right you see the place outside Svolvær where we started hitchhiking again. But wait!! there were two girls without any backpacks hitchhiking there. Being such gentlemen, we moved ahead and looked for a spot just on the other side of the bridge. Hitchhiking is not that uncommon in this place, is it? They finally got picked up and so did we 15 minutes after them in another car with two Norwegian girls. They took us just 5-10 km to Kabelvåg. It was late in the evening and we decided to camp there. Although its legal to camp everywhere in Norway, even on private property, we searched for a camp site to be able to take a shower and eat something in the morning. With some effort we found a campsite- but it was CLOSED! We put your tent there anyway and slept.






The first person who picked us up next day was a Norwegian woman who dropped us at Viking Museum in Leknes (50 kms). It was raining the time we started, but the skies were clear by the time we arrived in Leknes. As it turns out, weather in Lofoten region changes from island to island. Also, it differs from one side to the other because of the mountains. The place was one of the larger known settlement of vikings in Scandinavia. We were greeted by a French woman and a German guy who worked in the museum, very friendly atmosphere I must say. The picture showing our backpacks below was taken outside the Viking Museum. After hiking in the area for a while we were back on the highway. We were hoping to get in another car but didn't happen. Funny part was that a taxi driver parked there waiting for us to get in- well! we didnt go for it! we got into a bus and got off at Leknes.
We had plan to stay on a very remote part of the island in a small settlement called Valberg. I contacted Marinus through couchsurfing club who was going to host us there. There is no public transport to this place (50 kms from Leknes). Only a school bus, which runs twice a day, takes students to school in Leknes. We missed it. Well! we were back on the road! After hitching twice (in a car and than in a bus!) we finally arrived in Valberg. It was nice staying with Marinus in Valberg. Being on the south side of the mountains it was calm there (not windy).

The next day we started hiking in a valley behind his house (05May09). It was first time I walked on Marsh. It was like walking on a wet sponge. We walked our way up the valley. It was beautiful watching Fjords on both side of the island from up there. After we got lost a bit we found our way back down from the next valley and hitchhiked back to Valberg. On the right you see Aleksey lost on the mountaintop. In the evening Marinus cooked good Pasta for us and then we watched Ratatouille in Italian! (of course with English subtitles, I wish I could understand Italian!).


The next day (06May2009) we started our journey towards to the end of the Lofoten area. We took the school bus to Leknes, went outside the city to hitchhike (distance remaining- only 50-60 kms to the end of this road). The first person who took us was kindergarten teacher with his child. The next guy that gave us ride was going to the fish process factory that he owned (Picture of stock fish drying outside his small factory to the left). One kg of dry stockfish cost as much as 20 euros. The next was a construction worker who took us to a construction site close to the road (See Picture below). Although we were very close to our destination on road but we had to hike around the mountain if we wished to go to the other side on foot. Well! we waited and finally got picked up by two German friends who were driving 1000 kms to this place from southern Norway. Sameer: "Hey guys! where are you from in Germany?" Guys: "Jena" Sameer: "Friedrich Schiller University?" Guys: "Yes! how do you know?". World is small. I worked one summer in Jena in Germany (2006) while I was still completing my undergrad from IIT. I used to go to the student mensa of the Univ. Jena everyday. They joined us for our hiking trip up the mountain in Moskenes to Monkebu.

We arrived in Å (where the road finally ends!) and this rich fisherman came to us. Fisherman: "Hey guys! would you like to come over for a cup of free coffee in my fish-museum? I will give one cookie as well". Us: "Why not!" After visiting his museum and watching those short documentaries about fishing and life of fisherman in Lofoten we managed to get our trophy - a cup of hot coffee and one cookie each! :) To the left: picture taken before we started our way up the mountain. From left to right we have- Aleksey, Johannes and Thilo. Our trek up the mountain to Monkebu turned out to be the best experience. There were 5 lakes on our way up. We had to go around the lakes, up the mountains. The place was unimaginably scenic. It took us 4 hours to reach Monkebu. The height was just over 350 m above sea, yet all the lakes at the top were frozen to death (temp maintained at zero at all times).


The scenic beauty made us very slow as we went up. We drank water from fresh water streams/waterfalls and took lots of pictures. I must admit I was bit tired already but still had energetic soul! As this was the coldest part of the trip and wet as well, I realized how important it is to have good shoes and warm cloths. The guys had bad footwear, so I wonder how they managed all this time.


We finally reached Monkebu. It was a wonderful experience. We didn't realize that it was so cold until we finally stopped in Monkebu. The first thing we had to do was to put up tents as soon as possible, and get inside our sleeping bags. Our German friends were carrying cooking gas. Well! only Johannes had enough energy left to make a fire and cook spaghetti in ice! I was already enjoying the warmth of my sleeping bag. The only thing I remember that night (well! I probably wasn't so dark!) is Johannes and Thilo calling "Spaghetti is ready!". I got to eat some not-so-cold delicious spaghetti. It was difficult to wake up the next day because we were tired and it was cold outside. Soon after we woke up, we were on our way back. It took us 3-4 hours to get down. We spent the whole day together (07May2009). They dropped us at the youth hostel in Å. To our surprise the youth hostel had great personal facilities. We invited them over for dinner. They left after dinner as they had to catch a ferry to Bodø.




08May2009- most interesting day to end our trip. we woke up late, cooked lunch and started our journey to the place we started, i.e. Narvik. We were planning to travel by bus on our way back. It turned out No public transport available. Only two buses during weekdays were at 06:00 am and 09:00 am. What the heck! It was a bit scary as we had to take train to Stockholm the next day from Narvik. So we had only a day to cross 400 kms and no public transport. We were at the end of Lofoten, we getting a ride for even 40-50 km was difficult as people who were driving were mostly locals. With no other options at hand, we started hitchhiking. Its rather easy to hitchhike at a place where everyone knows that there is no public transport. But- 400 kms!! how long will it take? Aleksey was sure we would make it in time- if not during the day- then overnight! We got 3 short rides until Leknes where we were lucky to find a sales manager who took us all the way to Narvik!, and guess what, we were faster then if we had taken public transport! We spent that night at the youth hostel in Narvik and started our long journey towards Stockholm.



Useful Information:

Q. How to get to Nordland?
A. There are many small airports in Nordland that have regular connection to other big cities in southern Norway. Its possible to drive here from southern Norway, Sweden and Finland. I took a train to Narvik from Stockholm (1500+ kms) to arrive in Nordland. http://www.sj.se/ Regular fare are pretty high but its possible to get cheap ticket for a fraction of that price (60 euros return ticket that included a birth!).


Q. How to get to Lofoten?
A. Once you are in Norland you can use the public trasport (Bus or Ferry) to get there. Although public transport is not that great, especially off-season. You could try hitchhiking, it works! Its possible to drive there, they have made a road all the way to Å (400 kms from Narvik). http://www.177nordland.no/rutetabeller.aspx?navn=Buss

Q. Lofoten is way up north. Any special preparation for the subarctic climate?
A. Lofoten is a very special place. It is unusually warm for such high latitude. The winter and summer temperatures are around zero and 12. It is world's largest elevated temperature anomaly. Hot stream comes from the Gulf of Mexico and make this place so warm.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lofoten

Q. Where should I stay?
A. Its very easy to camp in Lofoten. There are several camping sites spread all over. Also, there are many youth hostels in the area. Unfortunately, most of the places are closed most of the year! I stayed in a youth hostel in Å and Narvik. To my surprise they were cheaper for the facilities they were providing, especially the one in Å.

Q. How is the weather?
A. It rains in summer. Because of the mountains the weather changes a lot from island to island and from one side of the mountain to the other!
http://www.yr.no/

Q. How about hiking and trekking on the mountains?
A. Excellent idea! All mountains are very approachable and they are not so high. Buy a very good map (10-15 Euros), although the islands are so small you just can't get lost! I went for hikes in Valberg and Å - Great experience! I would recommend good shoes to keep your feet warm and a good sleeping bag. Temperatures falls drastically as you go up on such high latitudes.
You can stay in well equipped huts when you are on longer hikes.
http://www.turistforeningen.no/english/